What Is Oud? A Guide to Perfumery's Most Precious Ingredient

Where oud comes from

Oud, also called agarwood, comes from Aquilaria trees, which grow across South and Southeast Asia. A healthy tree has pale, almost scentless wood. When it is wounded and infected by a particular mould, it defends itself by producing a dark, fragrant resin that slowly saturates the heartwood.

That resin-rich wood is what perfumers call oud. Because it can take many years to form, and only a fraction of trees produce it, natural oud has long been one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. Wild Aquilaria trees are now protected, so much of today's oud comes from cultivated plantations, and many perfumes use oud accords built from other materials to capture its character.

What does oud smell like?

Oud is woody, smoky and deep, often with leathery, balsamic or slightly sweet facets. Some oud smells clean and creamy; some is earthy and animalic. On its own it can be intense, which is why perfumers usually pair it with ingredients that soften and frame it.

• Rose: the classic pairing, adding a velvet floral warmth
• Saffron: a golden, leathery spice that brightens oud's darkness
• Amber and resins: richness and a long, glowing dry-down
• Sandalwood: creaminess that rounds out oud's edges

Oud perfume vs oud attar

Attar is a concentrated perfume oil with no alcohol, applied by dabbing onto the skin. It sits close to the body and is a long tradition in Pakistan. An oud perfume is alcohol-based and sprayed, so it projects further, applies more evenly and develops through clearer stages, from the opening notes to the base.

Neither is better. Many people wear attar for prayer and intimate occasions, and a spray perfume when they want their fragrance noticed.

How to wear oud

Start with less than you think. One or two sprays on the neck and chest are enough for most oud perfumes, especially an extrait de parfum. Oud shines in cooler weather and in the evening, and is a natural choice for weddings, Jummah and Eid.

If you are new to oud, choose a blend that pairs it with rose or saffron, which feels familiar and refined, before moving on to darker, smokier compositions.

Oud at Scenses

Midnight Oud balances agarwood with rose, saffron and sandalwood. Obsidian Drift is darker and more resinous, with black pepper, labdanum and amber. Heritage Blend layers oud with frankincense, saffron and ambergris, and is made for everyone.